Category Archives: Art Habit

Limiting the Palette

Important to note that this post was written with acrylic in mind, watercolors have their own palette choices that work differntly from acrylics. I'll address watercolors in a future post.

Why is palette choice so important to painting en plein air? Ultimately you want to carry the minimal amount of equipment to make the picture happen. You could carry every color you have available but that would make for a very heavy pack and awkward hiking. Using every color available tends to leave a painting with a disharmonious feeling. Paintings tend to have a harmonious feel when colors have been mixed with other colors in the painting. When you using paint straight from the tubes paintings tend to not jive as well as if you’ve added a touch of another color in your palette to the other colors.

The important thing with an en plein air palette is the colors you get by mixing 2 and 3 colors together. Some people use the same palette over and over again and others are constantly rearranging their palette, dropping in a new red or blue or swapping out a yellow. To each their own.

In acrylic I tend to work with the same palette for a warm season and switch to a more expansive palette in the winter months. This is because I usually work mostly inside in the fall and winter whereas in the summer I tend to work on location far more often.

Currently my palette is considered pretty large by plein air standards and it’s highly likely I’ll get rid of a yellow and a blue shade, but we’ll see.

Here are some excellent links on the subject of limiting your palette.

 Gurney

Learning to See

Channeling Homer

Channeling Homer also has a "pamphlet" about palette picking, and it's good

I frequently limit my palette to 2 or 3 colors, usually titanium white, a blue and then a warm color like titan buff or yellow ochre. This is an exercise I may explore again.

Picking a Palette

Yesterday Jane and I headed to Salem Willows for a little painting. My goal today was to get a handle on my sky and the forms of the trees. Whilst painting I realized that the palette I’ve included in my pochade is not completely right for what I’m doing. Jane and I also had a discussion about palettes and how somethings are right for some things but not others, like portrature verses landscapes.

My current palette is as follows:

  • Cad yellow light
  • Cad yellow Medium
  • Cad Orange
  • Aliz Crimson
  • Pthalo blue
  • Cobalt Blue
  • Ultramarine Blue
  • Unbleached Titanium white (Titan Buff for you Golden fans)
  • Titanium White
  • Mars Black

Now to be fair I’ve never included a black in my pochade palette in the past and I just sort of tossed it in on a whim, which is strange to think given how damn small this pochade is and how much smaller it is than my last box.

It is also interesting to note that I don’t have a single earth tone in here- not a drop of raw or burnt umber or sienna. Again, an oddity given my love of earth tones and their heavy use in my watercolor palette. Perhaps I was unconsciously rejecting my watercolor palette? Who knows, but an earth tone or two will be included in the next packing of the pochade. Also, yellow ochre is nowhere to be see.

It’s as if I closed my eyes and picked a palette not really suited to the sort of painting I was planning.

The all of the color except unbleached titanium were colors that my Painting 101 instructor listed on the “to buy list” for the class. Perhaps I was just grabbing some old familiars?

I’ve been trying to mix all the shades of green that I want but the truth is that it’s making me smash my head against the wall. Color mixing is entirely different for watercolors and acrylics. With watercolors it is much easier to mix the shades of green you need from just a few shades of blue and yellow. It is not the same for acrylic. I’m adding pthalo green to the mix. It will replace one of the 3 blues, which I’m not sure but right now I’m leaning toward ultramarine getting kicked out. I’m replacing the black with burnt umber.

This will shock people, given my love for this particular color, but I’m considering kicking Alizarin Crimson out of the box. It’s a great shade of red but for the space in the pochade I can get more mileage out of Napthal red. If I add nappy red (as I like to call it) I’ll also get rid of cad orange. Nappy red makes great oranges with either of the cad yellows. I will keep both cad yellows as they mix with the blues and the pthalo green to make different shades of green.

Cobalt blue may be replaced with cerulean blue but I’m not sure yet. This leaves me with the following:

  • Cad yellow light
  • Cad yellow Medium
  • Cad Orange-
  • Aliz Crimson- Napthol red
  • Pthalo blue
  • Cobalt Blue (questioning this one)
  • Ultramarine Blue- Pthalo Green
  • Unbleached Titanium white (Titan Buff for you Golden fans)
  • Titanium White
  • Mars Black– Burnt Umber

After I got back from my art adventure I headed to my studio and dumped the contents of the pochade out and started making color swatches of the colors in the box, to see what colors I could mix by mixing each color with the others in the box. It was enlightening and led to the switches seen above. Then I look through my swatches and I debate removing ultramarine from the mix…

Next up will be mixing a series of swatches from my studio palette. That will take substantially more time, I have 20 or 30 colors of paint. Then… I'll be doing this with my watercolors. This will certainly cut back on my cult of stuff purchases. I have that in check with watercolors, as I've always kept a list in my planner of the watercolors I need to replace. INterestingly enough I rarely stray from that list. Though on the rare occasion i have, I've ended up with colors that I use regularly, like indigo and red ochre.

 

Technique Tuesday: Deep Darks in a Painting

I want to tell you about mixing darks. For years I lived under the impression that a “real artist” doesn’t use black paint, even though it’s a part of many colors, like one of my favorites Payne’s Gray. In school mixing black with anything was definitely frowned upon. Instead we were expected to mix colors together to create deep dark shades. One of my professors taught me a dark that I really like and still use. It’s useful with a variety of colors because it can be mixed warm or cool.

It uses the following 3 colors:

  • Pthalo Blue
  • Alizarin Crimson
  • Pthalo Green

 

For the standard deep dark color, mix all 3 in equal proportions. If you’d like it warmer add more aliz crim.

This recipe can be changed up by mixing in various proportions:

  • alizarin crimson
  • Pthalo Blue
  • Cadmium Yellow Med or Cad Orange

 

Again start with equal amounts of each and adjust the colors to get the shade you want and need.

The various art professors who had issues with black said it “muddied” your colors. To a point that’s true, if you add a TON of black to a mix of colors it can turn to mud and not be clear. That being said, adding a  touch of black to a color will dull it and darken it.

One professor that I had suggested that we use it as a base color for shadows. Where another suggested that we use thalo blue for shadows and another suggested that we use thalo green for shadows.

I’ve found that the truth lies somewhere within the maze of contradictory and fuzzy advice these knowledgeable ladies and gents shared with me oh so many years ago. The core of this whole discussion is that you need to stare at a shadow and decide for yourself what color does it lean towards? Red Blue Green? Depending on what you see you should lean that way.

For me, my shadows lean toward the blue purple side of the spectrum so I start with a touch of pthalo blue and a tough of alizarin crimson hue or quid magenta.

Even though I feel okay using black now, I still tend to make my darks from blends of colors. In the image below that dark dark color is the second blend I wrote about AND I had it lean toward blue.

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Do as I Say, but not as I Do.

Please be aware as you read this post that I'm not "claiming copyright" to the IDEA behind cult of stuff, the idea that we've got too much stuff and that we fall victim to marketing. What I'm claiming is that someone was inspired by my post, wrote their own after reading mine and seeing that it was quite popular (over 600 hits in 24 hours), and then posted their post. What is the usual course of events with blogs is that the blog post that inspired the post gets a linkback, it's blogging courtesy. What I'm complaining about is a severe lack of blogging manners.

You’ll notice this blog is covered under the creative commons license. There’s a button somewhere on here that states which license it’s covered under. I do this so that people can repost parts of my blog (with attribution) and my images (also with attribution) so long as their blog or group is not for profit. I do this because I see copyright as divisive (more on this in another post). As it’s currently set up copyright is designed to protect big companies (will further be referred to as “the man”) and not the little guy, aka me, as a blogger or an artist. Legally sure it does but it costs money to copyright something and if I were to copyright (register) everything I produced I’d soon be broke.

That being said, I don’t think people should copy other people’s art work, teach classes that other people came up with, buy journals from bookbinders only to steal the design, nor do I think that someone should take someone else’s ranting tirade and rewrite it so that it’s more palatable for their audience and then post it on their blog. You see all of that is wrong, and when people do such things they are morally corrupt people who care more about their bottom line than they do about their fellow human beings.

Just as a for instance. I had an email conversation that sparked one of my cult of stuff posts. I wrote to the person with whom I had the conversation with to be sure that she was okay that I riffed on our conversation. After I got the okay I posted the rant. If I write a response to a post, or a post inspired by another blogger I write “hey this post was inspired by so-and-so over here, read it!” That’s blogger courtesy. I’ve been blogging for a LONG time, since 2000. So this is something you learn when you’ve been blogging for a long time and perhaps it’s something you don’t get if you come out of the old school publishing industry. One might think that it’s something you’d pick up after a year or more of blogging.

My point being if you like one of my blog posts, feel free to repost it with a link back. If you can’t link back don’t repost. It’s simple. IF you like a blog post but don’t think it’s quite right for your audience, contact me I’m willing to do a rewrite. IF you think you can write a better post, feel free, but the courteous thing to do is provide a link back to the author who inspired you. If you can’t or won’t do that, well you are probably of questionable morale judgment and I don’t want my blog and writing associated with you.

On another note don’t talk about respect, copyright and copywrong if you aren’t going to follow by your very own rules, it’s hypocritical.

Some assorted pictures supporting my theory of blog-lifting:

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I Need a Back up Plan

Oh mother nature! Sometimes she’s the bane of my existence. I have this meeting at the regional office in Cambridge, MA. I had planned to go in extra early, as I usually do before meetings, to beat traffic. This time I had planned to wander about with either my pochade box or with my camera. I’d get a little art time into what would otherwise be wasted time sitting in my car.

Sadly it sounds like mother nature has other plans in store for me, like sitting in my car, because we’re supposed to get showers. I’m packing my stuff just in case but I’m bummed about the prospect of rain.

BUT on a good note the weather for this weekend is supposed to be great, so I plan to make another visit to a scenic location and paint with my pochade, this time on the tripod!

Painting!

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Painting at the beach among the rocks. Jane took this pic of me while she waited for layers on her watercolor to dry. I really love our art adventures!

The Good Advice

I got a camera to help me take shots of the places I take my pochade box, so that I can better finish the piece when I get home. It’s rare that any one piece is 100% finished outside. I find a lot of the advice given for photography is similar to that I’ve received for painting en plein air.

A brief round up fo advice that applies to both:

#1 Don’t be lazy. (This applies to all art.)

#2 Chase the light.

#3 Look at lots of art/photos, good and bad, you can learn a lot just by looking.

#4 Make lots of art/ Take lots of photos. Throw away the bad. (Paint over)

#5 Be authentic. (don't hit me for using the buzz word)

#6 It’s all been done before except for your vision.

(Also Scott Bourne, a bignamephotodude is into the cult of stuff read this post.)

As an aside I added a tripod mount to my pochade making it even more bad ass than before. Now I don't need to rely on rocks to prop my pochade, now I simply need to lug in a tripod…

Technique Tuesday: Cigar Box Pochade

I’ve been on the hunt for the perfect cigar box for a pochade box for quite some time now. The thrift store I shop at often has cigar boxes for just a few dollars and I always buy one if they have one. I built my first pochade box back in 2009 with an empty wine gift box, it’s far too big and heavy but it is sturdy and good for short travel but not long walks.

Last night I found a nice small cigar box, wooden and very sturdy. When you look for a cigar box look for one that has a hinged top that is not just one flat piece of wood, that way you can replicate my very easy pochade.

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Once you find a box you’ll need the following tools and materials:
5/8th hardwood square rod/dowel
Saw
ruler
Pencil
Glue
Sand paper
Exacto knife

The lid will form your easel. Start by opening it to where you’d like the easel to rest. Use this as a guide for where your 5/8th wooden rod will sit. The wood stock will form the rest for the base of your easel. The lid will rest against the wood and be supported. For one of my boxes the wood pieces came 1/16th of an inch from the top of the bottom part of the box. For another box the wood sits flush with the bottom of the box.

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Measure this and cut your wood to size. Depending on your box you may need to work around the hinges. In my case I cut 2 pieces of wood to create vertical braces. I sanded the edges smooth and used wood glue to adhere them to the box. Any glue that squeezed out I wiped off with a damp rag. I put them box under weight and allowed the glue to dry over night.

I cut a piece of plastic to fit inside the lid to act as a palette. I then cut a notch in the inside lip of the box to securely grip the palette. I did this with an exacto knife.

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This box holds a large water bottle, 8 small tubes of Liquitex basics paint, a rinse tub, a small tube of acrylic glazing liquid, some rags, and soap. I added a mini bungee cord to help hold any canvases or boards in place. This pochade would easily hold 6 full sized tubes of paint. The water bottle could be discarded and more paint or mediums added.

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I may end up getting rid of the water bottle as it adds a lot of weight to the box and I always carry a reusable water bottle with me. This would allow me to add a mist bottle and a larger bottle of glazing medium. I carry 2 or 3 brushes in a brush wrap, 1 small round, a flat and a filbert.

In case you missed it, all I did for this was figure out where I wanted the lid to rest, cut 2 pieces of wood and glue it to the backside.

Walking and lots of it

One of my summer goals is to spend more time walking in this pretty city that I live in, get to know it by foot. Some of you may know that a few summers ago I got to know it by motorized bike. I traveled around the city on my little bike, okay, mini hog, and snapped pictures of it near landmarks. I traveled to nearly every park in the city, there are nearly 15, and really got to enjoy the city. I did many of these trips at sunrise and sunset, as there are fewer cars on the road and thus it was safer.

Anyway, I’ve decided that this summer I want to spend more time walking the city. Beverly is a pretty safe city that is friendly to walkers and there are lots of neat places to walk to.

So anyway, I walked up to the festival today and then walked around the park. I shot a bunch of pictures to get more accustomed to my camera. I need to learn how to use it better. I got some neat shots, some of which I put up on the blog yesterday. Anyway I took a few more shots and I’ll post them here.

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