Author Archives: leslie

Review: Ink Lightfastness

This winter I decided to test the lightfastness of many of my inks and a few pencils. I thought I’d lost the test sheet but it turns out I had stuck it to a different window when I had checked it. The results are interesting.
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Not lightfast, showing large color shifting or significant fading:

  • Chelpark Turquoise
  • Camlin Royal blue
  • Pilot G2 blue
  • Sharpie Ultra Fine Point Blue

Color shifting but line seems the same:

  • Loew Cornell Fine Point Marker
  • Sharpie Ultra Fine Point Black
  • Flying Colors Focus 0.5mm
  • Corner Office Black

No change:

  • Pentel Hybrid Technica
  • Pentel Pocket Brush Pen (pentel ink)
  • Permapague black fine point
  • Faber Castell Pitt Pen Sepia
  • Staples Gel mini- black
  • Sharpie China Marker
  • Derwent Graphitone
  • Derwent Pastel Pencil
  • Pelikan Fount India

The handbook paper which is acid free and a bright white color is now slightly  yellowed.

Random

I’ve sent you to this page on my site because you have sent me a random email with some sort of marketing or blog post pitch that shows me that you have not bothered to look at my site. So, here is a picture of a teenager wearing an octopus costume that is just about as random as the pitch you’ve sent me. Cheers!

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While you’re at it please take a look at the rest of my site to get an idea of what I write about here. If you understand what the site is about and you give me a realistic pitch I might consider a guest post.

Review: STAD One Touch Pencil Extender

I picked up a STAD pencil extender from Jetpens last week and as my usual review style, I put it through it’s paces before I wrote a review.
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I’ll admit my first impression was not good. Looking at the package I was expecting some weight and this extender while chunky is very light weight. I tried stuffing a vintage FaberCatell Design 3800 4B into its grasp and the little white plastic cap didn’t like it, or the extender didn’t like it, whatever it was the pencil is now in hiding and I can’t find it. (Turns out it was just hiding lower in the pencil cup…) Every pencil I stuck in it’s jaws seemed…. Loose.
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I took a look at the back of the package. There were some diagrams on the back with all the writing in Japanese… Picture #3 shows some fingers touching the jaw. I thought maybe in that image the fingers are squishing the jaws to the pencil, so I tried it. Oh baby, what a difference. The extender went from loose to thighs of steel. It grips all my regular sized pencils, from my Palominos to Vintage FaberCastell Design 3800s to PrismaColor Col-erase with an eraser.
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When you are done drawing or writing you can flip the pencil point into the extender and protect the point from breaking and you from being stabbed. WIN! This holder, like others, allows you to use your pencil down to the last tiny nubbin. The smooth grooved barrel is comfortable to hold and use. It's diameter makes it seem as if you are writing with a nice mechanical pencil or pen. Fancy.
P6014326(Protip: When you get down to the end of your pencil, use a sharpie to write the hardness on the top of the pencil so you always know what pencil nubbin you’re using.)

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Intro to Cafe Sketching and Journaling

I get asked pretty often what sort of tools one should take with them to the cafe/coffee shop for journaling and sketching purposes. Here’s my list: (I have linked to any vendor I know and trust for the various products. If I do not have a vendor directly linked you can assume I picked it up from someplace I cannot remember or Artist and Craftsman in Saugus, MA.)

First get a bag or roll to store your stuff in. I have a repurposed 1980’s (totally vintage) cassette tape softie case- some sort of flammable foam encased in a heavy canvas. If I were to buy a new case (and I’m considering it) I’d get one of these bad boys from JetPens. If you are using nicer (ie expensive) fountain pens you’ll want a wrap inside that case to further protect them from scratches. I bartered a drawing for my current case, but again, Jetpens carries a nice selection of pen and pencil rolls.

As for tools I carry the following and interchange a few things as I see fit:
2 fountain pens, one with a fine nib and one with a medium or bold nib. Right now I’m carrying a TWSBI 540 and a 530. I have them filled with black ink. I alternate these 2 pens with other pens from my collection, most often seen in my kit are a pair of Platinum Preppies, also in fine and medium, also always filled with black ink. (Occasionally I’ll make a choice to fill one with another lighter color- usually a brown or sepia color.) If I'm going ultra lightwight I take just a Kaweco Sport Medium nibbed fountain pen that stows in my pocket.

As for black ink I’d suggest the following: Pelikan Fount India, Platinum Carbon Black or Noodler’s Black. They all show relatively little lift when washed over and are a nice deep black in most pens and look great. Fill the pens before you go.

For other pens I suggest the Uniball Signo line. I’ve got a strong love going for the ultra fine lines made by the Uni Signo Bit 0.18 and the Uni Signo DX in 0.28 and 0.38. I also really like their fine point Jetstream and other pens. Their ink stays put, is fade resistant, waterproof and a nice deep black. You can also get refills for their pens, so they are a little more green than other disposable pens. Another addition that I like quite a lot is the Uniball Signo white pen in broad. I like to use it as a white out ink and to add back in highlights.

For pencils I’m going to harp on the Uniball line again, both the Kuru Toga and the Shift Pipe Lock are awesome pencils. I like a .5 for general sketching and a .7 for sketching with shading. I use either B or 2B lead in mine. I don’t know why you can’t get anything better than HB in the average US office store like Staples, but there are a lot more leads available than just HB. If I’m not in the mood for a mechanical pencil I’ll carry a few pencils with me, specifically an HB, 2B and a 4B. I’ll also carry a pencil sharpener and a click knife.

Brush pens or waterbrushes. I’m a HUGE fan of the Pentel Pocket Brush Pen or PPBP. It’s not overly expensive, readily available, easily converted to eyedropper and looks pretty smart. Once converted to eyedropper you can fill them with any color of ink you want. I have one filled with Pelikan Fount India and another with J. Herbin Gris Nuage.

The journal or sketchbook portion of this is very individual. I like to carry something inexpensive. Lately I’ve been carrying a Canson XL Series Blue Books in pocket size. You can read my full review of this lovely little journal in Put it on Paper. I’ve filled 3 since March of this year. They are pretty much perfect for my current style of sketching and journaling. I also carry my MTNKO. One day I’ll buy the real thing but for now it’s the MTNKO. In it I have crammed a bunch of refills: 2 blank and 1 grid Field Notes, 2 blank handmade notebooks, and one Bandit Apple Carnet. Yeah, I’m using them all. The Gridded Field Notes is all about plans for this blog, Ideas I’m having for classes, thoughts on current classes, YT video ideas and the like. One of the blank Field Notes is for the Experiment the other is for mapping out specific ideas for my YT videos. One of the blank handmade notebooks is for random ideas and to do lists- things like the grocery list, things I need to do around the house, Home Depot shopping lists etc.. The other handmade is for sketching as is the Banditapple Carnet.

I stuff all this into a bag and head for the cafe/coffee shop. I ORDER SOMETHING and I sit in a location where I have a nice view and I start sketching away. If I’m there for over an hour I ORDER SOMETHING ELSE.* After a few instances of going to the same coffee shop you will become a regular, if they have a good barista/bartender they might get to know you, your name and even your drink. They won’t care much about your drawing, or they will take a passing interest.

Next post will be about various bags for using when out sketching. I have many…

I used to be really nervous about drawing and writing in public but the reality is… No one seems to care. Occasionally a kid or fellow artist comes along and wants to chat but 97%** of the time no one talks to me or even looks at my work. The waitress will see what i’m working on but generally it me and my sketches and journaling.

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Watercolor Basic Tools

I was recently asked to do a brief “intro to watercolors post.” So here it is.

Watercolors have a variety of ways of being used, from larges washes and free wet into wet application to tightly rendered pencil drawings filled in with layers of colors. I work somewhere in between. I enjoy making a mess and creating carefully rendered illustrations of things I see. Here are some basic tools I’d sugesst with a budget in mind:

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First the colors themselves. I’d suggest starting off with a Windsor and Newton Cotman Sketcher's Pocket Box Set. It has 12 colors all of which are usable in a variety of settings. The box itself is sturdy and completely usable. The brush it comes with is, well, crap. This is the best of the small pocket sketch sets by W&N. It generally runs about $20. They are carried in most places like AC Moore and Michael’s.

If you are the crafty type I’d suggest making a recycled mint tin watercolor tin and picking up a student set of tubed watercolors. This will be more expensive but half the fun is making the tin and sourcing materials for it. Van Gogh student watercolors are inexpensive and work very well.

I like to buy most of my watercolors locally. I really like to walk into a place and look at the displays. This also lets me use my discount coupons best. I keep a running list in my planner of colors I’m running out of, this lets me walk into a store and walk out without buying more than I intend. This also has let me buy some REALLY expensive Winsor & Newton colors at half price! Although I am prone to buying tubes of every brand’s version of indigo and sepia.

Brushes are important. Using shitty brushes doesn’t  help your experience with painting, it merely serves to frustrate you. I have several sizes that I like: #12 round, #8 round, #6 round, #4 liner, 1/2in flat, 1/2in mop. I find myself reaching for the #12 and #8 round the most followed closely by the 1/2in flat. You want to look for watercolor brushes that are springy and hold a point. How can you tell this in the store? Take a small pot of water with you, swish the brush around until it’s soft and saturated with water and flick the water off the tip. Look at the tip, is it holding a nice sharp point? Yes! You have a winner! No? Put it back and try again. If they will not let you do this, or you feel uncomfortable trying it in stores, buy the brush and try it at home, return it if necessary. Start with one round- maybe a #8 or #6 depending on the size you plan on working. If large, buy larger and if small, smaller.

My favorite budget friendly brand is Princeton with the red handles. I have several of these that I reach for again and again. These are not the cheapest brushes available, but I have used them again and again since college with good success. Cared for properly they will last you many years. I have one I bought in college that I still use, we won’t talk about it’s age. These range in price from $5.99 to $12.99 each. These are available all over the place. These are a great coupon buy.

If you are looking for a still cheaper brush check out the Loew & Cornell Soft Touch line. These are dirt cheap but remarkably nice brushes. I bought them on a whim expecting them to suck and they were shockingly nice. I bought these in #10 round and a 1/2in flat. I find myself reaching for them again and again. Their #10 is the size of a Princeton #8. These are awesome cheap brushes. They run $3.99 for most sizes. The only place I’ve found these is at Joanne’s.

As for waterbrushes I’m a fan of the Koi brand. Which you can get at Jetpens. I have not liked the niji and the pentel I’ve tried.

Many watercolor pieces start out with a sketch. I like mechanical pencils for starting a watercolor painting. There are a lot of brands available, but I’ve been particularly in love with the Uniball Kuru Toga which you can get at Jetpens. I prefer it with a B lead. You can really use any pencil, but a good one is a joy to use.

As for paper. This is greatly a matter of preference. I’m a fan of cheap paper. I said it, I like cheap paper. I also don’t mind working in a regular sketchbook with watercolors, the cockles, wrinkles and curls don’t bug me at all. I do note that for most people, they hate this. Watercolors make even heavier papers curl. It is a fact of life and with watercolor you are going to have to deal with it or buy really really expensive paper. I strongly believe that buying paper that is too expensive encourages people to be stiff with their art. Buy cheap student grade paper to get used to using watercolors. Buy better paper later when you feel more comfortable with the materials. Fill a sketchbook before moving onto the next one. Test each color on every paper, they will respond differently.

A really nice paper for beginers and students is the Canson XL line. It is 2 sided, one side is smooth and the other is cold pressed. Compared to other watercolor papers it can’t be beat in terms of easy use, size and price. It also folds well incase you want to bind your own watercolor sketchbook. Their bristol pads also do well with watercolor.

A sketch paper that is slightly harder to find is the Clairfontaine Graft it Sketch pad. This sketchpad is simply brilliant with pen and ink, pencil and does great with watercolor. It’s thin but is just wonderful. It’s also pretty inexpensive as far as sketch pads go, $5 for a 6×8 pad. I’ve been making pocket sized notebooks out of these for awhile now and they are just awesome.

Some basic sundry items you should look into getting: a spray bottle for moistening your pallet or one of these, an assortment of rags, some plastic cups to rinse your brush- one for dirty-ish water and one for clean and maybe something to store all your stuff in. Keep your brushes safe somewhere!

Review: Uni-ball Kuru Toga High Grade Auto Lead Rotation Mechanical Pencil

I just got my hands on a Uni-ball Kuru Toga mechanical pencil from Jetpens, a great place to buy Japanese office supplies. This is a pencil that rotates its lead for you, so you don’t need to rotate the pencil to keep an even thickness. This is more of an issue, if like me, you write with your mechanical pencils at an angle. I will admit to being skeptical to the necessity of this mechanism, having tried it, I see a huge difference in the evenness of my writing.
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It’s a sharp looking (see what I did there) pencil. The point area is shiny chrome with an inset o-ring in the same color as the colored part of the body. Moving up the grip area is matte aluminum with some wave like indents. I was skeptical that this would feel good, but I was proved wrong, after an hour of sketching and writing I found that the wave like grooves were quite comfortable. At the lower part of the grip is a window to an orange piece. I couldn’t figure out what this was until I started to USE the pencil, there is a little icon that every 20 strokes of the pencil circles through the window, showing you that the lead is in fact rotating. Pretty cool stuff. Without this I’d be hard pressed to even notice that the lead was moving.
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The body of the pen is a shimmery pink. This pen is perfect for people who like shimmer mists spray ink, it looks like a solid version of glimmer mists. It shimmers in the light. You know how I feel about shimmery stuff… For a pencil I can allow it, I might even like it.
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The clip is shiny silver and sturdy, it has held the pencil to my MTNKO and in my bag without issue. The “knock” or clicker thingie is plastic affixed to a tube of metal that when removed reveals a mini eraser. Uni’s mini erasers are actually quite effective at removing pencil lines, but since mini eraser is mini, it gets used up fast. I always keep a click eraser nearby when using mechanical pencils. The click or knock itself is a satisfying clicky noise that pushes out roughly .5mm with a click.
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I really like this pencil, I really like how my writing stays even when using it. It’s not the best for sketching that utilizes a lot of subtle shading as shading and a soft touch defeat the rotation mechanism. To rotate the pencil needs to be lifted from the page, the pressure of your writing or sketching is what causes the rotation. If you write in cursive you are not going to activate the rotation. This pencil is great for printing and works best when doing so. However for my abysmal printing cursive (in which I connect a lot of my letters and print many too) it works great. It also works well for cross hatching and general sketching. Being able to defeat the rotation mechanism and shade softly is a nice touch while sketching.
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Uni offers several different versions of this pencil at a variety of price points, you really need to click over to the Jetpens page and scroll to the diagram section where there are several cartoons of frustrated students using other pencils that don’t rotate. Worth the laugh. For those of you who like flowers they offer this pencil with flowers on a shimmery barrel. You can thank me later.

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