Artist Beware

There have been some interesting happenings in internet
land. Someone from a large trendy retail and catalog chain has been emailing my fellow Etsians with a
potential lucrative offer. The email sounds like a potential goldmine.

You know the old adage “If it sounds like it’s too good to
be true?” I suspect that in this case it may be. As someone who has worked for
a large international company as a buyer I can tell people a little bit about
this process. Education is the key to making a deal like this successful for
the prospective artesian. Buyers for large companies fall into 2 categories-
those who are honest folks trying to do the right thing for the small artisans
and those who will do anything to make their bonus at the end of the money. IN
some cases companies pay their buyers based on the new product lines they bring
in and how much money they make on those lines.

There are also people whose jobs are essentially there to
bring in new lines or build into old lines- product line managers or some other
unwieldy title. These people are the folks who are scouring the internet to
find the next big thing. The big thing that’s going to get them the bonus, the
raise and the better cube. These are the people to watch out for.

So say you get an offer from a big company, is it all crap?
No at all but you need to be prepared. Large companies have at their disposal
resources we can’t imagine. This also means if you send in a sample it can
easily be sent to a manufacturing facility and millions of copies can be made
in 6 months. How can you protect yourself?

First, if someone sends you an email be sure that it’s
coming from a company email account SoandSo@thiscompany.com IF it doesn’t come
from a company account don’t trust it. Secondly head to the company website and
get the number for their corporate offices. Ask to speak to that person, or for
their extension. IF you get patched through it’s likely they work there. Ask
the person answering the phone what the person does. Most secretaries will be
pretty forth coming with this info. Explain why you’re asking. Ask for their
title. Now ask to speak to Human Resources, particularly a specialist in
recruitment. Ask HR for the job responsibilities of that title. HR should be
pretty forth coming with this info- after if you are posing as a potential
applicant they will tell you just about anything. Be polite and don’t be too
aggressive- there’s another adage- more flies with honey than vinegar.

Say you get a product line manger rather than a buyer, be
aware and careful with your next steps. These are the people in charge of
making new lines and not necessarily concerned with your profit or product.
Buyers are trying to bring in new product and not create new lines. It’s a fine
line between the 2 but buyers are less likely to have the capability to send
products to a manufacturer than a Product Line Manager.

The next step is to copyright your product. Don’t send
anything to a large company without getting some sort of legal document stating
the product and idea is yours. Consult with a lawyer if you need to. But Don’t
let a company steal your idea because they are big.

The next thing or perhaps the very first thing for you to
consider is the viability of you being able to make the quantity of product
that the company needs. Can you make 1000 books to send out at the end of the
month? Can you make and ship 1000 books in a month? IF not step back and think
about sending stuff to the company. Once they have your product there is
nothing saying that they couldn’t ship it off to a facility and have something
like it made, cutting you right out of the loop. Most large companies use a net
payment method. This means that you get paid a certain number of days AFTER the
company receives your product. Common net payments are NET15 and NET30, the
number after the net stands for the number of days after receipt your check is
cut and mailed. 30 days can be a long time. Can you pay for the materials for
1000 books upfront? Can you afford to take a month off of your DayJob and not
get paid for 15 or 30 days?

Another option is a licensing deal. They pay you for the
right to make your product; a certain amount up front and you can walk away. I
would suggest that you do this with a lawyer present to make sure that your
terms are met and that you get what you want. When talking to large companies
don’t be afraid to drop the line “I’m going to consult my lawyer and see what
he/she has to say.” Whatever you do be smart and don’t let a company get away
with stealing your ideas and products.

There are valid opportunities out there that are potential
goldmines for artists but you have to be aware of the sharks in the water and
protect yourself. Be aware at all times.

Blogged

Olivia over at Tapping Luau blogged and Vlogged me. Head over to her blog and check it out. She has a cute video that I’d copy over to here but can’t so you’ll have to head on over to her blog to see it.

The Giant

Take a look at this book. It measures 9×12 inches and has 192 pages. The paper is 60lb drawing paper and will handle just about any media. The cover is stiff smooth black cowhide. Features a flap and strap closure. The binding is a  longstitch with linking and a keyhole cut into the spine. I have a lot more pics on my flickr page. This one is sold (custom order) but I’m working on another in golden yellow deer hide.

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Another Big Journal

This large 6×9 inch journal is entirely handmade. The cover is hand cut from a smoothly textured jet black cowhide. the spine of this journal is 1.5 inches thick.

The inside pages are 160 unlined 110lb cardstock. The color of these pages is a warm cream color. The texture of the pages is perfect for writing and sketching. The paper is acid free. It’s a wonderful thick paper perfect for writing with a heavy fountain pen, no feathering or bleed through in my experience. It’s a lovely paper.

The pages are hand sewn to the cover with unbleached naturally colored Irish linen thread. It’s been lightly waxed to prevent fraying and tangling during sewing. The sewing style on this journal is a variation of the long stitch. The there are 3 keyholes that peak through the cover to the folded edges of the paper.

The back cover folds over the front to form an envelope style flap. This protects the inner pages from damage but also holds everything secure. It expands allowing you to stuff as much onto these pages as possible. From the flap emerges a long matching leather strap that ties around the journal and to itself to hold everything inside securely. With 160 pages to glue or stuff into this could end up being a very thick journal.

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ON etsy here.

Mini Moleskine

So this little beauty is a miniature moleskine. It’s stitched with hand waxed cotton thread. The spine was clamped and glued by hand with acid free flexible glue. The cover is a vinyl plastic coating just like a real moleskine. Inside are 32 pages of cream colored heavy paper. The bookmark is naturally colored hemp and in the back is a pocket. Holding the whole thing shut is an elastic.

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mini sewing cradle- really mini

Sometimes when working in the miniature sizes you can use your full
size tools and sometimes they just don’t work, case in point-my sewing
cradle, when I Was making the mini books in the previous post the
signatures slid through the slot in the cradle, so I needed
something…. smaller. So I made a mini cradle. It measures about 1.5
inches long, and each side is that size. It’s about 2 inches or so high
and surprisingly sturdy. It’s surprisingly stiff and rigid. I’ll be
making a small sized awl to go with the set and make punching the
stations easier.

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Book Cloth

I am a firm believer in making book cloth the old-fashioned
traditional way: paste, thin paper and fabric. It’s been done for, well,
centuries and it works and it’s not too hard.

First you need a starch paste. I like wheat paste. It’s
cheap and easy to find. All you need is pastry flour or wheat starch and water.
Pastry or cake flour is available in any grocery store and wheat starch is
available in specialty stores. You can also buy “real” wheat paste. Mix a 1:4
ratio of flour to water. Mix it well, no lumps. Now cook it, whisk constantly
over medium low heat until it becomes glossy and translucent. This amount of
paste will make a lot of book cloth and paste paper. I would suggest using
distilled water it won’t have any funny chemicals in it that will discolor
later. If you are an acid free freak add a ½ tsp to baking soda to the water it
will neutralize any acid content.

Cut your fabric to the size you would like. Use pre-washed
and ironed fabric so that it doesn’t shrink when you are gluing it. Cut your
thin paper 1 inch larger all around than the fabric. I really like washi paper
best but student grade sumi painting paper is more than perfect.

Now you need to spread your glue. There are lots of
differing opinions about how to do this, some people like to use a rubber
spreader and other like glue brushes and others like cheap chip brushes or
gesso brushes. I’m a brush woman myself. I used to use a 2-inch wide chip
brush. It worked great, but now that I’m working with a smaller size of paper I
use a medium glue brush. I suggest you try a variety of styles and see what
works for you.

I hold my paper down with one hand in the center, spread
glue allover the edges- generously. And then start to work the center. Work the
glue around until the wrinkles relax out of the paper. With thin washi paper it
takes 20 seconds or so for this to happen, constantly move the brush and glue,
work fast and loose, spread the glue generously. Don’t skimp on the glue. When
you see the paper relax, start to move excess glue to the edge and off the
paper. You don’t want a ton of glue on there when you put the fabric on the paper;
you want a thin EVEN layer.

Now your paper is relaxed with a thin even layer, you need
to drop your fabric to the glue covered paper wrong side down into the glue.
Gently rub the fabric into the glue. Now you need to pick the fabric, glue and
paper sandwich up and take it to a window and place the sandwich to the window,
fabric side to the glass, the extra glue covered paper will hold the paper and
fabric taught while it dries keeping it for the most part flat and keeping
tension on the fabric. (If you are lucky to have it- old window panes work
great for this- I was lucky that when I bought my house there were several large
pieces of plate glass in the garage.) AS it dries the paper will peel away from
the glass, if it doesn’t it cleans easily with soap and water.

There are many reasons to back your cloth with paper. First it
makes the fabric very easy to work with when binding, you fabric won’t stretch
when you glue it to you board. Secondly it keeps the color of the cloth true to
the fabric. Third, it decreases glue seepage. Fourth it makes a strong durable
bond of fabric to paper to board. There are several tutorials out there for
making book cloth with wonder under or other fusible interfacing. While it’s
fast and easy to use its more expensive and unknown in terms of it’s being
archival or acid free. (Let it be known here that I’m not an acid free freak.
There are books and paper out there that were made long before PH was
understood so my philosophy is that you can do what you want and most things
are going to outlive you and probably your children.

 

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Mini Hedgehog Notebook, really mini

A comment was made about mini books and I’ve made them in the past, so I thought I’d make a few more. These measure 1×1 inch and about 1/4 inch thick. The stitching is smythe or hedgehog/moleskine style. Working in this size was not compatible with my full sized tools, so I made a few mini tools- including a sewing cradle an an awl. For folds and scoring I might have to look into making some sort of folder.

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